September 13, 2009

We arose early, ate breakfast, and arranged our luggage. On today’s itinerary was the city of La Merced. We had been debating on whether to stay there or go to nearby San Ramon, but we choose the former since it is home to all the travel agencies and most of the hotels. It would place us more in the center of things.

Since it was still early, we took some time to check out the Huancayo Sunday flea market, the biggest in the area, something any tourist should experience. It covers several blocks along Avenida de Huancavelica, and you can buy knitted clothing, sweaters, fabrics, embroidered articles, wood carvings, pottery, the famous mates burilados, and many other items from the different towns of the Mantaro River Valley.

Once we finished our walk through of the market, we said good-bye to the city. We would have liked to have stayed one more day to go and see Mount Huaytapallana, but it just wasn’t meant to be. We returned to the hotel, collected our bags, and flagged down a taxi to take us to the bus station. It’s very close to downtown, across the way, so the taxi driver charged us just 3 Nuevos Soles (about $1.00).

At the station, we were approached by some bus line employees, asking where we were off to since they had a bus waiting to go to La Merced and they wanted to fill the seats.

The guidebook recommended the bus line Transportes San Juan, so we looked for its ticket office. The ticket seller immediately left to try and stop the bus that had just left, but he was too late. No problem because another bus from the company Los Angelitos (we think it’s called thus because you have to pray constantly on the road …) was also ready to leave, so they stowed our luggage, and we climbed aboard. That’s how we started off towards the upper jungle.

We drove through the Mantaro River Valley, and headed off towards the city of Tarma after entering the Jauja Province. The road snakes up the mountains, and two hours later we had reached the summit and could see Tarma perched on the slopes below. The city sits at an altitude of 3050 meters and is called the Pearl of the Andes. The bus made a stop there so passengers could disembark and embark, and street vendors also climbed aboard to hawk their wares… from drinks to tamales, dried fruit, and even medicine.

A few minutes later, we were off again, down the mountainside on a very narrow ribbon of highway. The arid, brown Andes progressively began to give way to the more green covered slopes of the central jungle. Our destination would place us in the heart of coffee and fruit production.

In less than two hours, we reached San Ramon and 11 km later, La Merced. It’s not a big city, but the air is filled with the zoom-zoom of mototaxis that fly through its streets. We walked out of the bus station and flagged down one of those mototaxis to take us to the Main Square, where the Hotel Reyna is located. Lodgings are simple and cost just 60 Nuevos Soles ($20.00) a night. We reserved one room for one night.

We dropped our things in the room and took off once again. The heat was suffocating. But, the first thing we did was find someplace to eat because it was 3:00 P.M. and we were famished. The guidebook recommended a restaurant called Shambari Campa, also on the Main Square. So that’s where we went. They offer plenty of dishes to choose from, many from the area.

After lunch, we stretched our legs, heading over to the river. We took some photos from an overlook, but wanted to go the one called Cruz de Chanchamayo. The agencies were still closed for lunch, so we asked around and were told it was easy to get there: take the nearby stairs and continue upwards. At the top, we had a wonderful view of the entire Chanchamayo River Valley and city. We stayed there for awhile to recover from the heat and then started back down.

Along the way, we heard a deafening noise, like the sound of motors running. The next day we found out they were insects called “campaneros”.

As we were walking back to the Main Square, we passed another hotel, the Rey, so we stopped and asked about the prices. We were shown a room, which was larger than what we had reserved in the Reyna. The only issue was it is farther away from the Main Square, but both hotels are owned by the same people. So, we decided to switch the next day.

We walked into the first travel agency we found, and they gave us info on excursions they organize. We discovered later the rest of the agencies offered the same: Perene-Pichanaki Valley, the towns of Oxapampa, Pozuzo, Pampa Hermosa, and Borgoña. We signed on for a trip through the Perene-Pichanaki Valley for the next day (we recommend you ask around for prices at other agencies).

That night, we ate a healthy dinner, mainly of a vast variety of fresh fruit and juices.

September 12, 2009

Today, we went with Jorge and Maritza to the town of Chupaca, Jorge’s birthplace and site of one of the region’s most important flea markets, after the one in Huancayo, which happens tomorrow, Sunday. We had breakfast in our hotel of fruit juice and scrambled eggs on toast. If I haven’t said it earlier, then here I want to state that Peru has a wide variety of awesome tasting fruit juices, totally natural.

We walked to Constitution Plaza since we were told that is where we can find taxis to Chupaca. Chupaca is also the name of an area province. Most cars bear the names of the places they stop at, and drivers are constantly slowing down, when they see people, and shouting their destinations. The car to Chupaca was supposed to be green and white. In a little while, one of those showed up; we boarded, and our journey began.

The town doesn’t sit too far away, about 11 km from Huancayo, but a trip via this type of taxi is a complete adventure. It stops constantly to pick up more and more people, and even when you think no one else can fit, it stops to pick up more. Some people are on their way to the market and are carrying their goods to sell.

We finally arrive and see livestock being sold in the lower part of town. It’s truly amazing to see farmers from the smallest towns coming here to buy cattle, pigs, sheep, Guinea pigs, and poultry… for food. The taxi climbed a hill and stopped at the Main Square, where we disembarked.

While we waited for Maritza, we took a walk around the square, seeing the cathedral and climbing up a three story lookout tower that has a great view of the Mantaro River Valley. The tower’s base is decorated in relief, a sculpture of what is locally known as a shapi (a dancer). It grotesquely represents a Spaniard wearing a hat proper to jungle cultures, carrying a spear in one hand, and holding a parrot in the other, who is expressing frustration at not being able to conquer the jungle.

When Maritza and her sister-in-law arrived, we went to the flea market; it’s very large, and you can find anything there you want, from fashionable purses and clothing to typical embroidered Andean skirts in vivid colors, blankets used by the locals to carry their babies or their goods on their backs, as well as hats for keeping the sun off your face, also very characteristic of the Andes.

And since food is a Peruvian passion, it comes as no surprise there are streets filled with carts and booths, whose sellers have prepared all types of food, like caldo de gallina (hot chicken soup eaten for breakfast), pachamanca (pit roasted meats and vegetables), tamales, tons of different fruit, kabobs, bread, and our favorite, roasted baby pig, a succulent treat for which Chupaca is famous.

There were about fifteen booths selling baby pig with the whole animal trussed up on a table. The female vendors were tearing pieces off with their hands and setting them on plates to serve their customers.

Once past the food area, we continue onwards and see the medicine and plant sellers. There is where we found a curious product called “sangre de grado”, which is sap from a tree of the same name. It is as red as blood, hence the name (sangre means blood in Spanish). There is also snail slime (from a very large snail), and we saw frog soup.

Later on, Gloria takes us to her house, and we ate some baby pig with bread and strong coffee. It’s a very typical snack in Chupaca.

Around midday, Jorge arrived, and we all went to Lake Ñahuimpuquio. It is a Quechua word meaning “pond” or “lake”. It’s about 25 meters deep and covers an area of about seven hectares with all types of animals and plants living in and around it. One native species is the totora, a reed and important construction material in some cultures.

We took a boat ride and were told the mystery of this lake. It is said that this lake is somehow connected to Lake Paca since there are old stories of people drowning in Lake Paca but their bodies being found after awhile in Lake Ñahuimpuquio. You can also see the ruins of Arwaturo at the top of a nearby hill. They belong to a Pre-Incan culture called Wanka.

After the boat ride, our stomachs were rumbling, and lucky for us there was restaurant on the lake side offering meat and farm-raised trout. We ordered fried trout and beer and spent a pleasant afternoon at that marvelous spot.

On the way back to Chupaca, which took us towards the town of Ahuac, we stopped at the Tinyari overlook. There you have a wonderful view of the Mantaro River Valley and Mount Huaytapallana in the background.

At Chupaca, we said good-bye and started the return trip to Huancayo. Tomorrow, we will be traveling to Chanchamayo.

September 11, 2009

We got up early and hailed a taxi to take us to the bus stop for the city of Huancavelica. Unluckily, the driver didn’t know the spot and so we ended up at the bus station for La Merced, known as the Station of the Andes. We asked there, and they told us where to go. The driver told us he had been away from Huancayo for some years and was a little lost. We found it funny because he called his mommy to make certain he got the direction right. In ten minutes, we were at the street where the buses leave for the city.

According to what we had read in the guidebook, there are two ways of reaching Huancavelica: one is to follow the highway and the other is to take a turnoff at one point along that road, which will lead you there as well. The advantage to the latter is that it affords you some wonderful sites you can’t see on the other.

We asked Jorge, and he told us there is a turnoff at the town of Palca, a dirt road through beautiful countryside. The only thing is that we had to talk to the driver first and agree to go that way. Also, there are buses that will take you to Huancavelica, but there is another means called “colectivos”, usually station wagons that leave for their destination when they are full. The trip is faster than a conventional bus yet a little more expensive.

When we arrived, at least five drivers approached asking where we were going. We told them we wanted to go to Huancavelica but along the dirt road. They told us it would be no problem as long as the other passengers agreed. They also offered to take us by ourselves and make stops along the way for photographs if we paid the equivalent of four passengers (100 Nuevos soles, 25 per person, or about $33.00).

We thought about it for a minute and then decided it was worth it. Five minutes later, we were on the road to Huancavelica at full speed. The driver told us trip time along this route would be almost the same as if we took the highway, about two and half hours.

The road snaked up the mountains. First we ascended and then descended. For awhile we followed the Mantaro River. One of the larger towns we drove through was Izcuchaca, and we could see the historic bridge from the car that was supposedly built by the Incas and defended by Huascar against troops sent by his brother Atahualpa during the Incan civil war that raged throughout the empire just after the Spanish had arrived.

We passed other, smaller towns, and one really caught our attention. The houses were all painted in vivid colors, some with designs on their walls. It is something you rarely see in Peru. The driver told us the town’s name is Cachillas Bajas and an NGO had bought the paints and supplies for the townspeople to liven up the place.

At last we made it to the turnoff, and we started the real journey through a narrow valley. There were a couple of tiny towns and plenty of small farms along the way. We were really struck by the people, though, women leading animals out to pasture, children walking for hours to reach school, and men working in the fields. It seems that time has stood still in the Andes. While the women shepherded, they used their time to knit with their babies held onto their backs by blankets.

When we reached the end of the valley, we passed through the last town and started to climb slightly until reaching the top. The sight was incredible: surrounded by mountains that surpassed 4000 meters and dotted here and there with flocks of llamas, alpacas, and sheep. We can’t describe how it made us feel. We started down the other side and at the bottom of the valley sat the city of Huancavelica, sheltered between steep mountains.

Once in Huancavelica, we drove to the Main Square where there was plenty of action, by the looks of things a folklore festival. There were many different groups of people dressed in the traditional and colorful outfits. We stopped by the local tourism office and met Candy Fanny and Fanny Susan, who kindly explained to us everything we could see in and out of the city. For curiosity’s sake, they also informed us that women we saw walking in their traditional clothing who had more flowers in their hats than others were the ones who had more desire to get married.

We strolled through downtown Huancavelica. It’s a small city, quiet and somewhat forgotten by the outside world since it is located high in the mountains. There are eight churches in town, and we toured San Sebastian, San Francisco, and Santo Domingo. Because the cathedral was closed, we were unable to enter. We also walked across the La Asencion Bridge built during the Spanish Colonial period.

Since we had to return to Huancayo today, we could not see the sights in the outskirts of town, like the Santa Barbara Mine, also known as the Mine of Death. It is an old mercury mine from the 16th century, and we were told the Indians sent to work there never came out again. Outside the mine sat the Santa Barbara Church, and, before going down into the mine, they held a mass of the dead for the miners as a group because they knew once inside they would never see the light of day again.

On the inside was an underground city, complete with houses, streets, and even a bullring, so they say, but now nothing remains. We were told the city wants UNESCO to declare it a World Heritage Site. Other places that would have been interesting to visit are some area hot springs: San Cristobal, Baños del Inca, and Tres Boas.

We ate lunch at a downtown restaurant and ordered a delicious dish called carnero al palo (spit roasted ram), not to mention pachamanca (pit roasted meats and vegetables). Drink of choice is chicha morada (purple corn juice). After lunch, the weather turned rainy, so we walked to the bus station to return to Huancayo.

We timed it just right because there was a bus from the TICLLAS company just about to depart. But at the first stop we were shocked when the bus picked up several passengers with tickets for the trip back. The company had double booked the bus, so the conductor/ usher patiently calmed down the angry people and found places for everyone. Nevertheless, there were some that had to stand for more than half the trip in the aisle.

Four hours later, we drove into Huancayo. We stopped by the Mercado del Artesano to purchase some souvenirs and ate dinner at a small restaurant called Cookie, next to the hotel. There they serve all types of sandwiches, hamburgers, turnovers, and pies. Very tasty, everything. Now it’s off to bed.

September 10, 2009

We got up early again today (the sun rises at 6 A.M. in Peru and the hotel windows don’t have venetian blinds). We went to a hotel that is in downtown Huancayo, next to the cathedral. Once there, we decided to purchase a tour of some of the sites we saw yesterday plus others we did not. That way, we would be able to see lots of sites in less time. We chose the classic tour that includes the villages of Hualhuas and San Jeronimo (even though we saw them yesterday), Lake Paca, the Mantaro Dairy Plant, Ingenio, and lastly the Ocopa Monastery.

We walked to the cathedral and found an agency offering such a package. They told us to be back by 9:50, so we took advantage of the time left to us to find out the train schedule for the city of Huancavelica because we were planning to go there tomorrow. They say you mustn’t miss out on the train ride from Huancayo to Huancavelica. It’s only 128 kilometers long, but you pass through 38 tunnels and over 15 bridges. The train is also called “macho” because it has an attitude: leaving when it wants to and arriving at its destination when it feels like it or can. To our dismay, they were working on the lines, so the train was out of service. The only option left to us was a bus or “colectivo”. Tomorrow we will have to gather the information.

It was time for us to leave, and the bus arrived on time. We were the only foreigners on the trip; the rest were from Lima, Huancayo, and Ancash… a rather mixed and quaint group we made. With a jerk, off we went towards Hualhuas. When we arrived, we found ourselves in the handicraft center again, but this time we were actually shown how to work mud and to use molds, just as the Mochicans did. We also watched weavers on their looms and were told how wool is dyed using things from nature.

Next stop was San Jeronimo. There, we were taken to a workshop, and the artisans showed us how they worked silver to produce what we see in the markets: pendants, bracelets, rings, and filigree. They then showed us what was for sale, like any good salesperson… after awhile, when everyone had gotten back together from strolling through the many stalls and stores, we continued our journey.

Lake Paca was next on the agenda. It lies some 40 kilometers away, close to the city of Jauja. It is surrounded by reeds and filled with all types of aquatic birds. In the middle of the lake sits a small manmade island, the Island of Love. We took a boat ride, and the boy steering it told us the story of the lake’s origin:

One day, God came down to Earth. He found his way to a small house and knocked on the door. From within a voice shouted, “Get out of here, you filthy varmint!” So, he walked to the next house and knocked on its door. Living there were two old men, very poor, and they were making dinner in a terracotta pot. There wasn’t much food, barely enough for even one person, so God put his hands over the pot and increased the amount. Now there was plenty for three people. Once supper had ended, God said, “Let’s go.” One old man brought a drum with them. They climbed a hill, the old men in front and God bringing up the rear. Sometime later, God asked the old man to give him the drum, and then he said, “Don’t turn around.” He let go of the drum, which rolled down the hill, and the sound it made grew louder the longer it rolled. The old men were too curious about what was happening and turned around to watch. They were instantly changed into white stones. The drum continued to roll until it reached the town below, where it exploded. Out of its remains poured out a quantity of water so great that it flooded the town and everything around it until it formed a lake.

After the boat ride, we drove to the town of Concepcion and walked through the Mantaro Dairy Plant. We were given a brief explanation of certain processes, but the best part was the free samples of cheese, yogurt, and milk jam. Delicious. Afterwards, you can stop by the small store and purchase any of the products made there. We recommend the ice cream, which is fabulous. I don’t think there is any better around. We all ate some, and there were members of the group that went back for seconds.

The dairy plant was just a way of wetting our appetite because then we took off for Ingenio, famous for its trout farms. There are plenty of restaurants which offer trout in a thousand different ways: cebiche, fried whole or in chunks, grilled.

Once lunch was over, the group had to decide whether to continue the trout visit or go on to the Santa Rosa Monastery in Ocopa. It was unanimous: Ocopa.

It wasn’t very far, but the last tour started at 5 P.M. (there are only guided tours available) and when we arrived, we had only five minutes to buy our tickets. Whew. We barely made it!

It is a very old Franciscan monastery, founded in 1725 by Francisco de San Jose. It became the staging area for missions to the jungle to evangelize the natives living there. We entered the olive cloister first, covered with paintings on the wall depicting the life of Saint Francis of Assisi. They were reproductions from masters of the Cusco School. We also walked through the cafeteria where not more than sixteen years ago, Josue Sanchez painted the walls and ceiling with vividly colorful scenes from when the Franciscans arrived in the jungle.

We also were allowed in the library, which contains more than 20,000 very old books, and the art gallery as well as two on site museums: of Sacred Art and of Natural History of the Jungle. The latter displays dissected jungle animals, possibly the most interesting part of the entire complex.

We also passed through the buildings that made up the original monastery, called the Obreria. There they’ve maintained the old rooms, the forge, and the loom.

We got back to Huancayo and stopped by where our friends were staying to pick them up for dinner. Instead of Peruvian food, they took us to a small, homelike pizzeria far from the mall experience. Sorry, we’ve forgotten its name.

Now it is time to sleep after such a long day because there is more to see tomorrow.

September 9, 2009

We got up late that morning, still feeling the effects of the altitude, especially a throbbing head ache, so we decided to take it easy that day.

Huancayo is the largest and most important city in the Mantaro River Valley. Most people farm, but some people make a living through business and tourism. A lot of people from Lima go to this central region of Peru because it is so close and the Carretera Central makes it simple to reach.

Because we experienced such a whirlwind tour of the North, we hadn’t had time to wash our clothes, so our first landmark was the laundry. We got all our clothes washed for a song.

While they were washing our clothes, we strolled along the area between Calle Real and Avenida del Ferrocarril. It was very busy with plenty of stores, shops, and street vendors, the latter very animated and wearing bright colors.

We ate a very light lunch of broaster chicken (pollo a la brasa), a dish that is widely consumed across the country. There we met up with some friends we made during our last trip to Peru, Maritza and her son Matias. The family is from Huancayo originally but now live in Lima. We were able to plan to meet them here before leaving on this trip.

That afternoon, Maritza took us on a city tour where we saw the La Merced Church, Constitution Plaza, and the Cathedral. We took a cab from there and visited the Parque de la Identidad Huanca. It celebrates all the Huancayans who hold special importance for culture, filled with statues and other representations in stone. Walking through it, you can see miniature buildings, fountains, and gazebos, all the while listening to typical highland music from Huancayo in the background.

After completing our walkthrough of the park, we hopped on a “colectivo”, a station wagon or large car that functions as a small bus, picking up multiple passengers and taking them to one destination. They are the most economical means of transportation for traveling about the city or outlying districts. We took one to go to San Jeronimo de Tunan, a small town with its own main square and Spanish Colonial church (we couldn’t go in because it was closed, but the guide books say it has beautiful wooden altars). The people there work as silversmiths and produce very fine pieces, some of the best in Peru if you are interested in purchasing something like that.

Afterwards, we went to pick up Javier, Maritza’s husband, and from there drove to Hualhuas where the people weave lovely clothing from naturally dyed wools. We stopped by a handicraft fair and watched as a woman worked her loom. Her articles were quite eye catching, so we asked her if we could buy some. Of course, she stopped right away and we began our business. One of the most typical articles of clothing in Peru for travelers to buy is the “chullo”, a hat originally from the mountainous regions that features attached ear covers and is very colorful. You find them everywhere.

We came back to Huancayo, and it started to rain, so we took refuge in the Casa del Artesano, another shopping/ exhibition center for handmade crafts. It is full of souvenirs like the famous mate burilado, an original Huancayo craft consisting of a small, dried, empty gourd with carven images on it. Sometimes they are painted. We even watched as some of the artisans worked on theirs. Very interesting.

Around Constitution Plaza is where you find a glut of travel agencies. They all offer the same packages to the same sites around Huancayo, so the only thing we had to do was shop around to find the cheapest deal. It’s always fun having to wheel and deal to get a real bargain.

Since it was late in the afternoon and everyone was tired, we decided to eat supper (ours was light as recommended for those suffering altitude sickness) and to return to the hotel to rest.

September 8^th, 2009

We awoke and had breakfast at the hotel on the first full day of the rest of our trip that now rested solely on our shoulders. We really appreciate all that Jessica and Carla from PromPeru did for us as well as our guides and drivers, Yolanda, Antero, Enrique, Juan Arrieta and, Eric, and the staff from Domiruth.

After breakfast, we had to choose which bus company to use for our trip to Huancayo. A few phone calls later and we had made up our minds in favor of Cruz del Sur. We bought tickets for a 1:30 P.M. departure from the Javier Prado bus terminal and an 8 P.M. arrival in Huancayo. We also had to decide on which hotel to stay at since there were a couple that looked really good and that had vacancies; the Marquez Hostal was located next to the bus station and the other closer to downtown, the President Hotel.

We could have taken a train to Huancayo if the dates had worked out, but our schedules just didn’t mesh. The Central Andean Railway runs a train out of Lima to Huancayo two times a month. It also has the second highest train station in the world. You can find them on the World Wide Web (Ferrocarril Central Andino).

We walked for awhile around Miraflores and then caught a taxi for the bus terminal at 12 P.M. While checking our bags, we realized things had changed since 2007. There were more ticket windows, a larger baggage check section, and an Internet kiosk.

We were a little worried about this trip to Huancayo because of altitude sickness. Not only is the city a lot higher than Lima (3244 meters), but we are crossing the Andes at the Ticlio Pass, 4800 meters high.

We began boarding procedures at 1 P.M. with a check of our passports and boarded the bus. We were all videotaped once all the passengers were aboard.

The bus was comfortable, seats wide and cushy. We left right on time and were served lunch a little while later.

As we leave the city of Lima, we can see all the houses built and being built on the hillsides, which are gray, rocky, and lifeless.

Yet, as we climb, the surroundings change. The steep mountains sprout green with vegetation.

Everything was going great until about 4:45 P.M. We had just driven through the village of Chicla, over 3600 meters, and the bus suddenly stopped. The driver told us he had received news of thick fog and snow at the Ticlio Pass, highest on the route, and we could not go forward. We had to stay where we were, turn off the motor, and wait, without heat and with the temperature dropping.

Lucky for us, five minutes later we started moving again. But, unlucky for us, we ran into some fallen rocks at the first curve and the driver had to do some fancy maneuvering to be able to continue on. Then, the Cruz del Sur staff began a game of bingo with the passengers to pass the time with the winner receiving a free round trip bus ticket… but we were not the lucky ones.

At about 5:40 P.M., the bus stopped again in the middle of the road. We had bad weather, yes, but now we had to contend with a miners’ strike in a town we were to pass through. It wasn’t until 9 P.M. that we started moving again. The elevation was around 4000 meters and we were really feeling the effects of altitude sickness: headaches, nausea, and that general achy body feeling. We finally made it to Huancayo at about 1 A.M. What a trip! We wouldn’t wish that on our worst enemy. We walked straight to the nearest hotel, but there were no vacancies, so we had to grab a taxi to drive us to the President Hotel.

Tomorrow is a new day.

September 7^th, 2009

We got up early again today because our return flight to Lima from Chiclayo departed at 8 A.M. We really feel a strong connection to this northern section of Peru because of the great time we had exploring its ancient civilizations, and it’s sad to have to say good-bye.

Juan picked up us by 6:45 A.M. and we were in the registration line by 7 since the flight was domestic and the airport is relatively small. We left on time and landed in Lima at 9 A.M. We were told today was going to be pretty intense so we were ready to go, go, and keep on going.

10 A.M., we dropped off our luggage at the hotel, and, thirty minutes later, our guide Enrique showed up to take us around the city.

Our first destination was Parque de Amor, designed by Victor Delfin in 1998, who got his inspiration from Antonio Gaudi’s Barcelona Parc Güell. It sits right on the Pacific, so the view along the Lima coastline is marvelous, a romantic spot for lovers to come and contemplate the sea and each other.

We continued the tour to the archeological site of Huaca Pucllana, not far at all from the park in the district of Miraflores. After a quick walk through, off again to a different part of town, San Isidro, and a tour of the Parque del Olivar, a lovely, peaceful area with walking trails through some 1650 olive trees, the most famous being the so-called Tree of Happiness, which is purported to be 375 years old and to possess the magical ability to keep marriages together so couples come to stand beneath it.

After San Isidro, we headed towards downtown Lima and its two beautiful squares; first, Plaza San Martin, which honors Peru’s first centennial as an independent country. Its center monument features a statue of Jose de San Martin, the Protector of Peru.

The second was the Main Square, the heart of Lima where you see the Palacio del Gobierno (residence of the Peruvian president), the Cathedral and connected Archbishop Palace, as well as the Lima City Hall. Interesting bit of trivia here is that none of these buildings are original to the Main Square and its oldest part is the ceremonial Dolphin Fountain in the center, which dates back to 1650 A.D.

Because we arrived there at 12 P.M., we were on time to watch the changing of the palace guards, a daily ritual much like at Buckingham Palace in London. Lots of military pomp.

From the Main Square, we went to the San Francisco Church and Monastery, a Neoclassical and Baroque landmark. The interior is breathtaking for the quality of the Mudejar style wood work in cedar brought from Nicaragua. The story goes that even the boats that arrived from there were dismantled and the wood used in its construction and decoration. Around the central patio are 32 very large paintings that tell the story of the life of Saint Francis of Assisi, and, beneath these, the walls are covered in hand painted Spanish tiles made in Seville. But the highlight of the tour was the catacombs. It is a relatively small section of a network of manmade caverns that, as legend has it, crisscrosses downtown Lima and connects different landmarks. Regardless of the veracity of this claim, some experts estimate that thousands of people are buried there, and the bones lie exposed in countless rectangular pits. Yet the most awesome sight is the circular well, filled with bones that have been arranged in concentric circles. Dizzying and creepy at the same time. You definitely have to experience it when you visit Lima. As for the Franciscan population living in the monastery, there are some 50 monks.

Close by the San Francisco Church is the old Spanish Colonial mansion where Peru’s Constitutional Tribunal operates, so we took a very quick tour of that site, as well.

After such a fierce morning schedule, our stomachs were empty and growling. Good thing for us lunch was next. Back across town to the restaurant, La Rosa Nautica, located at the end of a long pier off the Costa Verde Beach between Miraflores and Chorrillos. It felt like we were sitting in the midst of the ocean, listening to the waves, watching the surfers, and eating Peruvian cuisine… grilled fish covered in a tomato and onion sauce, causa limeña, and papa a la Huancaina.

That afternoon, PromPeru had organized an interview with the local media so our schedule was full.

Afterwards, we had dinner at a restaurant called Junius that features a buffet of region cuisines and a music and dance show. Our favorite part was the Peruvian cocktail, Algarrobina, made with pisco brandy, carob syrup, and milk.

It’s terrible we didn’t have enough more time because there is still so much to see in the city: China Town, the Water Park, inside the Cathedral, all the different museums, the list is never ending… we must come back someday.

September 6, 2009

Early to bed, early to rise… we certainly fit the latter case. Today we went to the Charparri Ecological Reserve, some 75 km from the city. This protected area was formed through a partnership of the Muchik Santa Catalina de Chongoyape farm community, Heinz Plenge (photographer and conservationist), various private enterprises, and the Peruvian government.

It is home to a wide variety of plants and animals, even endangered species like the spectacled bear, Sechura desert fox, white winged guan, and the Andean condor. And if you love birds, then you gotta go because there are so many bird species you need more than your ten fingers and toes to count them all.

It was named after Chaparri Hill (Cerro de Chaparri) located within its boundaries, which, as legend has it, the Moches deemed sacred, as do local shamans today.

First stop was the town of Chongoyape: through a valley where farmers grow all types of different crops. Even though the area is a desert, a group of Germans built the Tinajones Dam about forty years ago which supplies the farmers the needed irrigation waters.

We were met by our local guide, Mr. Antero, upon our arrival at Chongoyape. You must hire a local guide if you want to visit the reserve, and a percentage of the entrance fee goes to the community (25% for health and 15% for education).

We had to walk along a forest path from the village to the reserve. It took us about 45 minutes. Our guide, who has lived his entire life in this area and loves nature, would point out to us where each bird was we heard along the hike. We were visiting during the end of the dry season, a great time to go bird watching. If you come during the rainy season, it may be a bit disappointing since the trees are covered with leaves and it is hard to spot the birds, although you can hear them everywhere.

As we enter the reserve itself, we see different types of birds: woodpeckers, owls, guans, hummingbirds, and tyrants as well as other animals like foxes, deer, and bears. We also checked out a small terrarium to see area snakes and another sector set aside for bears that had been rescued from captivity and are being rehabilitated. Our guide explains to us the spectacled bear is endangered because of illegal hunting. Once killed, hunters sell the penis because it is thought to hold special sexual power. You see, during its mating season, the animal can have sex up to four times a day, each time lasting for an hour and a half. That’s stamina for you.

They are also trying to repopulate llamas in this area, but the animals had to be driven to lower elevations since pumas attack them during the dry season. All that dry grass makes perfect hiding places for the big cats, and they can sneak up on their prey unsuspecting.

We also saw some of the bungalows they rent out to visitors who want to rough it. We then had a nice picnic lunch outside the reserve’s guide station.

After leaving the reserve, we drove towards the dam and watched fisherman fish with nets and took our quota of touristy pictures.

We dropped off our guide, and Juan drove us around the town. We stopped at Valera and tried a tasty dessert called bizcochuelo, sort of like a sponge cake. Don’t try to hide this from your wife either because if she finds out you went there and didn’t bring her back some of that sponge cake, man, you’ve had it.

We came back to the hotel, totally tired, and decided to spend this afternoon resting and catching up on the blog.

September 5, 2009

Ever since PromPeru presented us with the tickets for this trip, all we heard about is the visit to the Señor de Sipan and how incredible it really is. Well, today was the day we finally got to see for ourselves. This morning’s drive took us to Huaca Rajada, another sacred site in the Peruvian desert formed by two pyramids that are separated by a central platform.

The story of the Señor de Sipan discovery begins with Walter Alva being hired to assess damage grave robbers were causing to the site. Odd thing is that even though these people raid ancient tombs, they are very respectful about it. Out of what seems like a combination of fear and respect, they ask the spirits for permission to enter the tomb by presenting them an offering since the huaca also protects them. Archeologists also have to offer something to the huaca before initiating a dig because the townspeople around the site won’t allow them to work if they don’t. The ancient rites of shamans are still alive and kicking in Peru, especially in the North.

So, Walter Alva and his team started digging and uncovered an impressive tomb of what they believed to be a powerful Mochican ruler. In honor of his standing, they named him the Lord of Sipan (Señor de Sipan). Continued digs brought 14 other tombs to light, one just the other day before we arrived. We shared the site today with the National Geographic Society, whose representatives were taking pictures and interviewing the people. There are two other very important tombs at this site: one for the Viejo Señor (a man who ruled before the original Señor de Sipan) and the other for the Sacerdote (high priest).

The best thing about Alva’s discovery is that he was able to examine an intact Mochican tomb, whereby he could divine some of their burial rites. The man was entombed with an abundance of riches in gold and silver jewelry encrusted with turquoise as well as with an entourage: a warrior, a priest, a watchman, two women, a boy, a dog, a llama, and another guard at his feet who had his feet amputated, supposedly to keep him from leaving his post. Experts believe all were buried alive but under the influence of some hallucinogen (the two most probable candidates are ayahuasca and San Pedrito, the latter gotten from a cactus and christened thus by the Spanish since it causes a person to feel like they are floating out of their bodies, possibly to Heaven to visit Saint Peter). There is a reproduction in the site museum of how the tomb was discovered, by the way.

After this visit, we got back into the car and drove toward the city of Lambayeque to visit the Señor de Sipan Museum where displayed are the actual remains of the three most important tombs discovered at Huaca Rajada.

We think it’s cool that it is designed like a pyramid. Very fitting for the discovery. Some people even claim its one of the world’s best museums because of what it has on display. Each room features a replica of a tomb and displays real artifacts uncovered during the digs: necklaces, nose rings, earrings, scepters, crowns, breast plates, banners, and statuettes of the Mochican god Ai Paec. They also show artifacts in before and after exhibits, I mean, at the moment of discovery and then after the restoration process. There is a mock up of the Señor de Sipan wearing all his regal clothing and objects, too. As you leave the museum, the last exhibit is a dynamic recreation of how the royal court may have looked, including music (with instruments thought to be from the time of the ruler).

It’s time to eat! So much activity packed into one morning and we were famished. Yolanda and Juan take us to El Cantaro in Lambayeque for some down home cooking Peruvian style. We also raise a pisco sour to toast the Señor de Sipan! Our food was delicious: tacu tacu with baked goat on the bone and rice with shellfish. Well, those are the names at least, but, to give you an idea of what they are, tacu tacu is a bean dish, perfectly seasoned and then fried with rice and topped with the goat in all its fatty juices! Succulent doesn’t begin to describe it. The rice dish is chocked full of all types of shellfish: octopus, squid, clams, shrimp, oysters, scallops… and spiced just right.

Back at the hotel, we have to say goodbye to Yolanda. It’s a sad parting since she is a top notch guide, and we lacked nothing when it came to information about archeology and history or customs and traditions.

The museum was the best part of the adventure so far. When you come this way, don’t pass it up. Everything on display is just fantastic and showed us just how advanced Pre-Hispanic civilizations were.

There is also so much to see, too much in such a short period of time, in regards to archeology… we never got to see the Tucume Pyramids, Batan Grande, and lots of others. The entire coastline was inhabited, and some people are now saying there are traces of oriental influences found in certain settlements.

That afternoon, we checked out the Main Square of Chiclayo and saw the city hall and cathedral. Later, we walked through the Modelo open air market…stands and stalls filled with every type of merchandise imaginable: clothes, live animals, fruit, whatever. Then we were shown something incredibly out of the ordinary: the Mercado Brujo (magic market). Its vendors sell amulets, vials of tonics that are supposed to cure all ailments, aromatic herbs, healing ingredients, and hallucinogenic drugs. You can hire the services of a shaman here as well. It is reputed to be the largest market of its kind in Peru.

The time we’ve spent here has shown us the mystical and esoteric world is very much alive in Peruvian culture, especially in the mountains. More and more, groups of tourists are going to small highland villages seeking out shamans instead of going to traditional doctors.

Topping off this day was a lovely dinner at the restaurant bearing the same name as the archeological complex we just visited: Huaca Rajada. It has a modern appearance yet very cozy, with excellent service and fine food. Next door sits a pulsating dance club for those who want to dance the night away.

September 4^th, 2009

Our car was awaiting us in the morning for our trip northwards on the Pan American highway to Chiclayo. First stop along the way was the El Brujo Archeological Complex in the Chicama Valley, but to get there we passed through the town of Chiclin that developed when German and Italian immigrants settled on the northern coast and set up huge sugar cane plantations there. Yolanda told us that in 1969, the government reformed the agricultural sector, splitting the large commercial houses into smaller coops run by the workers, which are now being bought up by government companies.

Watching from the window of the vehicle, it is easy to see how hard work in a sugar cane field really is. We also pass small roadside stands where they are cooking a rich chicken soup called “caldo de gallina” in huge stock pots so field hands can start the day with a hearty meal. I’m sure they are going to need it…

Wow, we finally made it to El Brujo, and ohhh! our poor bodies. How they suffered during the trip. You see, we had to take a turnoff from the main highway and cut across country along a dirt track… lots of pot holes, lots of ruts, and lots of dust! The good news is they are building a real paved road to the site, so future tourists won’t go through such an ordeal to get there.

Driving up to this site, we see there are three small hills, pyramidal in shape, sacred sites, called Huaca Prieta, Huaca Cortada, and Huaca Cao, situated between the ocean and the cane fields. It is called El Brujo (Spanish for warlock or shaman) because it is the traditional place shaman adepts would congregate to celebrate their mystical rites.

Yolanda told us the most important part excavated has been Huaca Cao, where archeologists have discovered seven separate platforms whose walls are decorated in reliefs, some of which are the most important found concerning Mochican religious beliefs: sacrifices and battle scenes.

Of course, the reason we went there was to see the most important discovery yet: the mummy of the Señora de Cao, a high priestess and possibly the first female Mochican ruler. The Wiese Foundation is financing the project, and it has just opened a new site museum where on display is the mummy and some of the artifacts that were buried with her. What makes this find so unique is this was the first embalmed body discovered in northern Peru. They showed us a really interesting movie about how they removed all the wrappings and adornments from the mummy. Cool!

We left El Brujo for the city of Chiclayo. Over the bumpy track to the Pan American highway and then north again. We settled into our hotel but didn’t have time for much else. The adventure continued. This time to the city of Lambayeque to see the Brunning National Archeological Museum. The four main cultures that lived in this area: Chimu, Moche, Chavin, and Vicus definitely left plenty of traces behind because we saw tons of pottery, jewelry, scraps of cloth, and stone and wooden pieces.

It is also set up for you to walk through it as if it were a time line so you can see how settlements developed on the coast.

Later that afternoon, we meet up with Pamela and Maria, PromPeru and Domiruth’s representatives in Chiclayo, respectively. By the way, Domiruth is the travel agent in charge of our trip.

Wherever you go in Chiclayo, you see small mototaxis: three wheeled, small engine motorcycles with an enclosed compartment for 3 people in back. We were told there are so many because it had to due with the high price of gas during the Fujimori administration. People started buying and driving them to save money.

And we thought it was hard to cross the street in Trujillo, but it is nothing like Chiclayo, dodging both regular and mototaxis. What an adventure!

We ended a day full of activities by eating an exquisite dinner at the restaurant “Fiesta”. They say the food in Chiclayo is some of the best in Peru, and the fish we ate was phenomenal, so there’s no argument here!