Paseando entre muros eternos en Trujillo

September 5, 2009

Ever since PromPeru presented us with the tickets for this trip, all we heard about is the visit to the Señor de Sipan and how incredible it really is. Well, today was the day we finally got to see for ourselves. This morning’s drive took us to Huaca Rajada, another sacred site in the Peruvian desert formed by two pyramids that are separated by a central platform.

The story of the Señor de Sipan discovery begins with Walter Alva being hired to assess damage grave robbers were causing to the site. Odd thing is that even though these people raid ancient tombs, they are very respectful about it. Out of what seems like a combination of fear and respect, they ask the spirits for permission to enter the tomb by presenting them an offering since the huaca also protects them. Archeologists also have to offer something to the huaca before initiating a dig because the townspeople around the site won’t allow them to work if they don’t. The ancient rites of shamans are still alive and kicking in Peru, especially in the North.

So, Walter Alva and his team started digging and uncovered an impressive tomb of what they believed to be a powerful Mochican ruler. In honor of his standing, they named him the Lord of Sipan (Señor de Sipan). Continued digs brought 14 other tombs to light, one just the other day before we arrived. We shared the site today with the National Geographic Society, whose representatives were taking pictures and interviewing the people. There are two other very important tombs at this site: one for the Viejo Señor (a man who ruled before the original Señor de Sipan) and the other for the Sacerdote (high priest).

The best thing about Alva’s discovery is that he was able to examine an intact Mochican tomb, whereby he could divine some of their burial rites. The man was entombed with an abundance of riches in gold and silver jewelry encrusted with turquoise as well as with an entourage: a warrior, a priest, a watchman, two women, a boy, a dog, a llama, and another guard at his feet who had his feet amputated, supposedly to keep him from leaving his post. Experts believe all were buried alive but under the influence of some hallucinogen (the two most probable candidates are ayahuasca and San Pedrito, the latter gotten from a cactus and christened thus by the Spanish since it causes a person to feel like they are floating out of their bodies, possibly to Heaven to visit Saint Peter). There is a reproduction in the site museum of how the tomb was discovered, by the way.

After this visit, we got back into the car and drove toward the city of Lambayeque to visit the Señor de Sipan Museum where displayed are the actual remains of the three most important tombs discovered at Huaca Rajada.

We think it’s cool that it is designed like a pyramid. Very fitting for the discovery. Some people even claim its one of the world’s best museums because of what it has on display. Each room features a replica of a tomb and displays real artifacts uncovered during the digs: necklaces, nose rings, earrings, scepters, crowns, breast plates, banners, and statuettes of the Mochican god Ai Paec. They also show artifacts in before and after exhibits, I mean, at the moment of discovery and then after the restoration process. There is a mock up of the Señor de Sipan wearing all his regal clothing and objects, too. As you leave the museum, the last exhibit is a dynamic recreation of how the royal court may have looked, including music (with instruments thought to be from the time of the ruler).

It’s time to eat! So much activity packed into one morning and we were famished. Yolanda and Juan take us to El Cantaro in Lambayeque for some down home cooking Peruvian style. We also raise a pisco sour to toast the Señor de Sipan! Our food was delicious: tacu tacu with baked goat on the bone and rice with shellfish. Well, those are the names at least, but, to give you an idea of what they are, tacu tacu is a bean dish, perfectly seasoned and then fried with rice and topped with the goat in all its fatty juices! Succulent doesn’t begin to describe it. The rice dish is chocked full of all types of shellfish: octopus, squid, clams, shrimp, oysters, scallops… and spiced just right.

Back at the hotel, we have to say goodbye to Yolanda. It’s a sad parting since she is a top notch guide, and we lacked nothing when it came to information about archeology and history or customs and traditions.

The museum was the best part of the adventure so far. When you come this way, don’t pass it up. Everything on display is just fantastic and showed us just how advanced Pre-Hispanic civilizations were.

There is also so much to see, too much in such a short period of time, in regards to archeology… we never got to see the Tucume Pyramids, Batan Grande, and lots of others. The entire coastline was inhabited, and some people are now saying there are traces of oriental influences found in certain settlements.

That afternoon, we checked out the Main Square of Chiclayo and saw the city hall and cathedral. Later, we walked through the Modelo open air market…stands and stalls filled with every type of merchandise imaginable: clothes, live animals, fruit, whatever. Then we were shown something incredibly out of the ordinary: the Mercado Brujo (magic market). Its vendors sell amulets, vials of tonics that are supposed to cure all ailments, aromatic herbs, healing ingredients, and hallucinogenic drugs. You can hire the services of a shaman here as well. It is reputed to be the largest market of its kind in Peru.

The time we’ve spent here has shown us the mystical and esoteric world is very much alive in Peruvian culture, especially in the mountains. More and more, groups of tourists are going to small highland villages seeking out shamans instead of going to traditional doctors.

Topping off this day was a lovely dinner at the restaurant bearing the same name as the archeological complex we just visited: Huaca Rajada. It has a modern appearance yet very cozy, with excellent service and fine food. Next door sits a pulsating dance club for those who want to dance the night away.