Back to Lima

Posted by Javier Felip Tomas on October 23, 2009

September 7th, 2009

We got up early again today because our return flight to Lima from Chiclayo departed at 8 A.M. We really feel a strong connection to this northern section of Peru because of the great time we had exploring its ancient civilizations, and it’s sad to have to say good-bye.

Juan picked up us by 6:45 A.M. and we were in the registration line by 7 since the flight was domestic and the airport is relatively small. We left on time and landed in Lima at 9 A.M. We were told today was going to be pretty intense so we were ready to go, go, and keep on going.

10 A.M., we dropped off our luggage at the hotel, and, thirty minutes later, our guide Enrique showed up to take us around the city.

Parque del AmorOur first destination was Parque de Amor, designed by Victor Delfin in 1998, who got his inspiration from Antonio Gaudi’s Barcelona Parc Güell. It sits right on the Pacific, so the view along the Lima coastline is marvelous, a romantic spot for lovers to come and contemplate the sea and each other.

We continued the tour to the archeological site of Huaca Pucllana, not far at all from the park in the district of Miraflores. After a quick walk through, off again to a different part of town, San Isidro, and a tour of the Parque del Olivar, a lovely, peaceful area with walking trails through some 1650 olive trees, the most famous being the so-called Tree of Happiness, which is purported to be 375 years old and to possess the magical ability to keep marriages together so couples come to stand beneath it.

After San Isidro, we headed towards downtown Lima and its two beautiful squares; first, Plaza San Martin, which honors Peru’s first centennial as an independent country. Its center monument features a statue of Jose de San Martin, the Protector of Peru.

The second was the Main Square, the heart of Lima where you see the Palacio del Gobierno (residence of the Peruvian president), the Cathedral and connected Archbishop Palace, as well as the Lima City Hall. Interesting bit of trivia here is that none of these buildings are original to the Main Square and its oldest part is the ceremonial Dolphin Fountain in the center, which dates back to 1650 A.D.

Because we arrived there at 12 P.M., we were on time to watch the changing of the palace guards, a daily ritual much like at Buckingham Palace in London. Lots of military pomp.

From the Main Square, we went to the San Francisco Church and Monastery, a Neoclassical and Baroque landmCatedral de Limaark. The interior is breathtaking for the quality of the Mudejar style wood work in cedar brought from Nicaragua. The story goes that even the boats that arrived from there were dismantled and the wood used in its construction and decoration. Around the central patio are 32 very large paintings that tell the story of the life of Saint Francis of Assisi, and, beneath these, the walls are covered in hand painted Spanish tiles made in Seville. But the highlight of the tour was the catacombs. It is a relatively small section of a network of manmade caverns that, as legend has it, crisscrosses downtown Lima and connects different landmarks. Regardless of the veracity of this claim, some experts estimate that thousands of people are buried there, and the bones lie exposed in countless rectangular pits. Yet the most awesome sight is the circular well, filled with bones that have been arranged in concentric circles. Dizzying and creepy at the same time. You definitely have to experience it when you visit Lima. As for the Franciscan population living in the monastery, there are some 50 monks.

Close by the San Francisco Church is the old Spanish Colonial mansion where Peru’s Constitutional Tribunal operates, so we took a very quick tour of that site, as well.

Restaurante Rosa NaúticaAfter such a fierce morning schedule, our stomachs were empty and growling. Good thing for us lunch was next. Back across town to the restaurant, La Rosa Nautica, located at the end of a long pier off the Costa Verde Beach between Miraflores and Chorrillos. It felt like we were sitting in the midst of the ocean, listening to the waves, watching the surfers, and eating Peruvian cuisine… grilled fish covered in a tomato and onion sauce, causa limeña, and papa a la Huancaina.

That afternoon, PromPeru had organized an interview with the local media so our schedule was full.

Afterwards, we had dinner at a restaurant called Junius that features a buffet of region cuisines and a music and dance show. Our favorite part was the Peruvian cocktail, Algarrobina, made with pisco brandy, carob syrup, and milk.

It’s terrible we didn’t have enough more time because there is still so much to see in the city: China Town, the Water Park, inside the Cathedral, all the different museums, the list is never ending… we must come back someday.

327 Responses to Back to Lima

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